John Mosman (goldsmith)
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John Mosman was a Scottish goldsmith based in Edinburgh who served the royal court and was involved in gold mining.


Family background

There is some confusion between the John Mosman who served
James V of Scotland James V (10 April 1512 – 14 December 1542) was List of Scottish monarchs, King of Scotland from 9 September 1513 until his death in 1542. He was crowned on 21 September 1513 at the age of seventeen months. James was the son of James IV of Sco ...
and the activities of other members of the family. Another John Mosman of a previous generation was an Edinburgh
apothecary ''Apothecary'' () is a mostly archaic term for a medical professional who formulates and dispenses '' materia medica'' (medicine) to physicians, surgeons, and patients. The modern chemist (British English) or pharmacist (British and North Ameri ...
. It has been suggested that the Mosman family was of Jewish origin. A branch of the family including a John Mosman and his son Robert Mosman was recorded in February 1490 in connection with their tenancy of the lands of "Easter Gledstanis". In 1508 a John Mosman and his servant John Bykat were involved in a violent struggle involving several Edinburgh goldsmiths. Daggers were drawn and William Currour cut James McCalyean's lip with a goldsmith's file.


Career

One of John Mosman's early recorded works was a set of silver clasps for the king's
haubergeon A hauberk or byrnie is a shirt of mail. The term is usually used to describe a shirt reaching at least to mid-thigh and including sleeves. Haubergeon ("little hauberk") generally refers to the quilted undergarment used with a hauberk, but the term ...
, a piece of chain-mail armour in February 1534.


Scottish gold

Mosman was involved in
gold mining in Scotland Gold has been mined in Scotland for centuries. There was a short-lived gold rush in 1852 at Auchtermuchty and Kinnesswood, and another in 1869 at Kildonan in Sutherland. There have been several attempts to run commercial mines. In the Lowther Hil ...
. In 1539 French-speaking miners arrived from the
Duchy of Lorraine The Duchy of Lorraine (french: Lorraine ; german: Lothringen ), originally Upper Lorraine, was a duchy now included in the larger present-day region of Lorraine in northeastern France. Its capital was Nancy. It was founded in 959 following t ...
sent by the
Duchess of Guise Lady of Guise Non hereditary, 950–? Elder House of Guise, ?–1185 House of Avesnes, 1185–1244 House of Châtillon, 1244–1404 House of Valois-Anjou, 1404–1417 Countess of Guise House of Valois-Anjou, 1417–1425 House of L ...
and Mosman paid their expenses from Edinburgh to the mines at Crawford Moor and for their equipment. The royal accounts specify that many pieces made by Mosman were fashioned from Scottish gold. In 1538 Mosman made a hat badge featuring a mermaid, set with diamonds, from the "Kingis awne gold" with some gold Mosman provided himself. Mosman was paid for a nugget of gold, "unwrocht gold of the mynde", that was sent the
Duke of Guise Count of Guise and Duke of Guise (pronounced ¡É¥iz were titles in the French nobility. Originally a seigneurie, in 1417 Guise was erected into a county for René, a younger son of Louis II of Anjou. While disputed by the House of Luxembourg (1 ...
, the father of the queen consort
Mary of Guise Mary of Guise (french: Marie de Guise; 22 November 1515 – 11 June 1560), also called Mary of Lorraine, was a French noblewoman of the House of Guise, a cadet branch of the House of Lorraine and one of the most powerful families in France. She ...
.


Queens of Scotland

In May 1538 the fool of
Madeleine of Valois Madeleine of France or Madeleine of Valois (10 August 1520 – 7 July 1537) was a French princess who briefly became Queen of Scotland in 1537 as the first wife of King James V. The marriage was arranged in accordance with the Treaty of Rouen, ...
was bought a green velvet gown and Mosman made her a "chaffron" of gilded silver. In April 1539 Mosman was given gold coins and gold from a Scottish mine to make hair pieces called "chafferonys" for the women of the court of
Mary of Guise Mary of Guise (french: Marie de Guise; 22 November 1515 – 11 June 1560), also called Mary of Lorraine, was a French noblewoman of the House of Guise, a cadet branch of the House of Lorraine and one of the most powerful families in France. She ...
. He made a "chafferoun" of gold in "Paris work" or fashion for one of the daughters of James V, probably
Lady Jean Stewart Lady Jean Stewart (also known as Jane Stuart; c. 1533 – 7 January 1587/88), was an illegitimate daughter of King James V of Scotland by his mistress, Elizabeth Bethune (sometimes spelled ''Betoun'' or ''Beaton''). Childhood Jean was born bet ...
. This was a Scots word for a jewelled strip bordering the front of a hood or coif. In an inventory of Margaret Tudor's jewels in 1516 a "chaffron" comprises the jewelled border and also the velvet hood or hair bag, embroidered with pearl. Another goldsmith, Thomas Rynd, who was based in
St Andrews St Andrews ( la, S. Andrea(s); sco, Saunt Aundraes; gd, Cill Rìmhinn) is a town on the east coast of Fife in Scotland, southeast of Dundee and northeast of Edinburgh. St Andrews had a recorded population of 16,800 , making it Fife's fou ...
sold a "chaffron" to Mary of Guise in May 1539, when she was staying at Pitlethy near
Leuchars Leuchars (pronounced or ; gd, Luachar "rushes") is a small town and parish near the north-east coast of Fife in Scotland. The civil parish has a population of 5,754 (in 2011) Census of Scotland 2011, Table KS101SC – Usually Resident Populat ...
, and James V bought chains and pendants from Rynd to give to the queen's gentlewomen at this time. This gifts to the women of the queen's household bought from Mosman and Rynd were occasioned by the queen's pregnancy. In December 1539 Mosman made a
zibellino A zibellino, flea-fur or fur tippet is a women's fashion accessory popular in the later 15th and 16th centuries. A zibellino, from the Italian word for "sable", is the pelt of a sable or marten worn draped at the neck or hanging at the waist, or ...
for Mary of Guise from Scottish gold, comprising the head and feet of a
marten A marten is a weasel-like mammal in the genus ''Martes'' within the subfamily Guloninae, in the family Mustelidae. They have bushy tails and large paws with partially retractile claws. The fur varies from yellowish to dark brown, depending on t ...
fashioned in gold to be worn with the fur.
Mary, Queen of Scots Mary, Queen of Scots (8 December 1542 – 8 February 1587), also known as Mary Stuart or Mary I of Scotland, was Queen of Scotland from 14 December 1542 until her forced abdication in 1567. The only surviving legitimate child of James V of Scot ...
gave this fur with a gold head and feet to
Mademoiselle Rallay Mademoiselle Rallay or Madame Raylie (fl. 1561 – d. 1585) was a Scottish courtier. She served as chamberwoman and then lady-in-waiting to Mary, Queen of Scots. She was described as one of Mary's favorites. She should not be confused with her ni ...
in December 1561 to mend and re-line, described as an item to wear around her neck. Mosman made Mary of Guise a belt from Scottish gold with a sapphire. Mosman made rings for James V from Scottish gold and stones described as "Scottish diamonds." He also made silver reliquaries for bones of
St Malo Saint-Malo (, , ; Gallo: ; ) is a historic French port in Ille-et-Vilaine, Brittany, on the English Channel coast. The walled city had a long history of piracy, earning much wealth from local extortion and overseas adventures. In 1944, the Alli ...
and
Adrian of May Saint Adrian of May (sometimes given as "Magridin") (d. 875) was a martyr-saint of ancient Scotland, whose cult (religious practice), cult became popular in the 14th century. He is commemorated on 3 December. He may have been a bishop of Archbishop ...
. He made at least two whistles for the king from Scottish gold, and one had a dragon coloured with enamel. The whistles may have been used by the king on his ships, including the ''
Salamander Salamanders are a group of amphibians typically characterized by their lizard-like appearance, with slender bodies, blunt snouts, short limbs projecting at right angles to the body, and the presence of a tail in both larvae and adults. All ten ...
''. Mosman made a silver whistle for the "patroun", the commander of the king's new ships. James V was also fond of
hawking Hawking may refer to: People * Stephen Hawking (1942–2018), English theoretical physicist and cosmologist * Hawking (surname), a family name (including a list of other persons with the name) Film * ''Hawking'' (2004 film), about Stephen Ha ...
, and Mosman fashioned a silver clam shell as a luxurious accessory to hold the meat used to train the birds. He made a second clam shell for hawk meat in December 1541 with another, half the size, for the king's tooth powder. In February 1541 he made the king two gold bells for hawks and a silver case for tooth-picks. In June 1542 he was asked to enlarge the second clam shell for hawking.


Gifts for kings

In 1540 James V sent hackney riding horses as gifts to
Francis I Francis I or Francis the First may refer to: * Francesco I Gonzaga (1366–1407) * Francis I, Duke of Brittany (1414–1450), reigned 1442–1450 * Francis I of France (1494–1547), King of France, reigned 1515–1547 * Francis I, Duke of Saxe-Lau ...
, the Dauphin, and the
Duke of Guise Count of Guise and Duke of Guise (pronounced ¡É¥iz were titles in the French nobility. Originally a seigneurie, in 1417 Guise was erected into a county for René, a younger son of Louis II of Anjou. While disputed by the House of Luxembourg (1 ...
. The horses were equipped with elaborate harnesses and cover cloths, fitted with buckles, and decorative thistles and lion's heads, which Mosman gilded using mercury. The weaver Helen Ros made silk fringes for this horse tack, and she also made
passementerie Passementerie (, ) or passementarie is the art of making elaborate trimmings or edgings (in French, ) of applied braid, gold or silver cord, embroidery, colored silk, or beads for clothing or furnishings. Styles of passementerie include the tas ...
for chairs. The king's former favourite
James Hamilton of Finnart Sir James Hamilton of Finnart (c. 1495 – 16 August 1540) was a Scottish nobleman and architect, the illegitimate son of James Hamilton, 1st Earl of Arran, and Marion Boyd of Bonshaw. Although legitimated in 1512 while still a minor, he contin ...
was executed in August 1540, and his silver was brought from
Craignethan Castle Craignethan Castle is a ruined castle in South Lanarkshire, Scotland. It is located above the River Nethan, a tributary of the River Clyde, at . The castle is two miles west of the village of Crossford, and 4.5 miles north-west of Lanark. Built ...
to Edinburgh, where Mosman engraved it with the heraldry of the king's infant eldest son, James, Duke of Rothesay. John Mosman was bought clothes like others regarded as members of the royal household, including black satin for a doublet, and a black cloak. He was not an exclusive maker or supplier of jewelry to the Scottish royal court, the king frequently bought pieces from the goldsmith Thomas Rynd, especially for the New Year's day gifts which he distributed to courtiers. Thomas Rynd was a relation of Jonet Rynd, who founded Edinburgh's Magdalen Chapel.


The crown of Scotland

Mosman is known for making and refurbishing the
crown of Scotland The Crown of Scotland ( gd, Crùn na h-Alba) is the crown that was used at the coronation of the monarchs of Scotland. It is the oldest surviving crown in the British Isles and dates from at least 1503, although it has been claimed that the cir ...
in January 1540. He included ciphers of "JR5". The crown is kept at
Edinburgh Castle Edinburgh Castle is a historic castle in Edinburgh, Edinburgh, Scotland. It stands on Castle Rock (Edinburgh), Castle Rock, which has been occupied by humans since at least the Iron Age, although the nature of the early settlement is unclear. ...
with other items known as the
Honours of Scotland The Honours of Scotland (, gd, Seudan a' Chrùin Albannaich), informally known as the Scottish Crown Jewels, are the regalia that were worn by Scottish monarchs at their coronation. Kept in the Crown Room in Edinburgh Castle, they date from the ...
. The treasurer's accounts mention Scottish "gold of the mine", three great
garnet Garnets () are a group of silicate minerals that have been used since the Bronze Age as gemstones and abrasives. All species of garnets possess similar physical properties and crystal forms, but differ in chemical composition. The different s ...
stones and a great emerald. He delivered the finished crown to James V ay
Holyrood Palace The Palace of Holyroodhouse ( or ), commonly referred to as Holyrood Palace or Holyroodhouse, is the official residence of the British monarch in Scotland. Located at the bottom of the Royal Mile in Edinburgh, at the opposite end to Edinbu ...
on 7 February. The tailor Thomas Arthur made a bonnet to line the crown from purple velvet. John Paterson made a case to keep it in. Mosman made and gilded a silver sceptre and made a crown for the coronation of Mary of Guise in February 1540. This crown, which does not survive, may have been used in 1590 at the coronation of Anna of Denmark. It was in the
Tower of London The Tower of London, officially His Majesty's Royal Palace and Fortress of the Tower of London, is a historic castle on the north bank of the River Thames in central London. It lies within the London Borough of Tower Hamlets, which is separa ...
in 1649, described as a "small crown found in an iron chest, formerly in the Lord Cottington's charge". Mosman was given Scottish gold, from Crauford Moor, to augment the king and queen's crowns in June 1542.


Regent Arran

Mosman also worked for
Regent Arran A regent (from Latin : ruling, governing) is a person appointed to govern a state ''pro tempore'' (Latin: 'for the time being') because the monarch is a minor, absent, incapacitated or unable to discharge the powers and duties of the monarchy, ...
and was rewarded in May 1550 for his "diligent labours" in making the gold chain presented to "Fumet", François de Seguenville-Fumel, sieur de Thors, the French envoy who brought the peace treaty at the end of the war with England known as the
Rough Wooing The Rough Wooing (December 1543 â€“ March 1551), also known as the Eight Years' War, was part of the Anglo-Scottish Wars of the 16th century. Following its break with the Roman Catholic Church, England attacked Scotland, partly to break the ...
. Mary of Guise paid for half of the gold used in this chain. In January 1552 he made chains and "target" hat-badges and other pieces for Regent Arran, and he probably made the jewellery which was distributed at the wedding of his daughter Barbara Hamilton in February 1549, gold rings, hat-badges, and bracelets costing £156. Barbara Hamilton died in 1577, and her effects included a locket or "tablet" which opened with leaves on which the inscription "Obsecro Te Sancta Maria Mater Dei Amen" was engraved and highlighted with white enamel. In 1552 he gilded a silver bell for Regent Arran. John Mosman was appointed in September 1556 with
Michael Gilbert Michael Francis Gilbert (17 July 1912 – 8 February 2006) was an English solicitor and author of crime fiction. Early life and education Gilbert was born on 17 July 1912 in Billinghay, Lincolnshire, England to Bernard Samuel Gilbert, a writ ...
, William Ure, and Robert Rynd to collect and oversee contributions from members of Edinburgh incorporation of goldsmiths to a tax levied by Mary of Guise for the defence of the
Scottish borders The Scottish Borders ( sco, the Mairches, 'the Marches'; gd, Crìochan na h-Alba) is one of 32 council areas of Scotland. It borders the City of Edinburgh, Dumfries and Galloway, East Lothian, Midlothian, South Lanarkshire, West Lothi ...
. He probably died soon after.


Marriage and family

John Mosman married Katherine Sym. Their children included: * John Mosman, who married Susanna Wilson (d. 1593) a daughter of the merchant Luke Wilson, their children included Susanna and John Mosman. He made a cup in 1586 used at Rosneath Kirk in Dunbartonshire, and now in the
National Museum of Scotland The National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh, Scotland, was formed in 2006 with the merger of the new Museum of Scotland, with collections relating to Scottish antiquities, culture and history, and the adjacent Royal Scottish Museum (opened in ...
. In 1593 the stock of their shop included a number of rings set with precious and counterfeit or "slight" stones, and a "tablet" or locket with the miniature portraits of
James VI James is a common English language surname and given name: *James (name), the typically masculine first name James * James (surname), various people with the last name James James or James City may also refer to: People * King James (disambiguat ...
and
Anne of Denmark Anne of Denmark (; 12 December 1574 â€“ 2 March 1619) was the wife of King James VI and I; as such, she was Queen of Scotland The monarchy of the United Kingdom, commonly referred to as the British monarchy, is the constitutional fo ...
worth £57 Scots. * James Mosman, who married Mariota Arres, and secondly in 1571, Janet King, and rebuilt the " John Knox House" on the
Royal Mile The Royal Mile () is a succession of streets forming the main thoroughfare of the Old Town of the city of Edinburgh in Scotland. The term was first used descriptively in W. M. Gilbert's ''Edinburgh in the Nineteenth Century'' (1901), des ...
in Edinburgh. On 16 December 1558 he weighed and valued the treasures of St Giles' Kirk including the reliquary of the saint's arm bone. James Mosman and his workshop made gold chains for
Mary, Queen of Scots Mary, Queen of Scots (8 December 1542 – 8 February 1587), also known as Mary Stuart or Mary I of Scotland, was Queen of Scotland from 14 December 1542 until her forced abdication in 1567. The only surviving legitimate child of James V of Scot ...
to give as diplomatic gifts. In April 1566 he sold the queen rings and other pieces which were probably intended as presents to her attendants. He was an assay master in the mint and made dies for the coinage. With another goldsmith
James Cockie James Cockie (died 1573) was a goldsmith in Edinburgh. He helped mint coins in Edinburgh Castle during the Marian Civil War and was hanged as a counterfeiter on 3 August 1573. The surname was also spelled "Cokie" and "Cokkie", "Cokke", or "Cok". T ...
, he helped raise money on the security of the
jewels of Mary, Queen of Scots The jewels of Mary, Queen of Scots (1542–1587), are mainly known through the evidence of inventories held by the National Records of Scotland. She was bought jewels during her childhood in France, adding to those she inherited. She gave gifts o ...
during the "lang siege" of Edinburgh castle and was executed in 1573.Bruce Lenman, 'Jacobean Goldsmith-Jewellers as Credit-Creators: The Cases of James Mossman, James Cockie and George Heriot', Scottish Historical Review, 74:198 (1995), pp. 159–177. ** The children of James Mosman included Marion Mosman (d. 1599), who married Andrew Meikle; and John Mosman younger, who had daughters, Elspeth and Marion Mosman.


External links


The crown of Scotland, Historic Environment ScotlandSally Rush, 'Looking at Marie de Guise', ''Études Epistémè'', 37 (2020)


References

{{DEFAULTSORT:Mosman, John 16th-century Scottish people Businesspeople from Edinburgh Court of James V of Scotland Gold mines in Scotland Mosman family Scottish goldsmiths